kasia's travels

tulum

2007-12-19T16:47:00.000-08:00

my final destination is paradise. I am living in a cabana on the Caribbean shores of Tulum. falling asleep to a cacophony of waves and waking to a turquoise sea. mornings of yoga and diving in the reefs and underground caves of the cenotes, afternoons spent walking the tranquil beaches, reading the books of others as I write my own...simply and beautifully detached from the world. with scarce electricity, the stars illuminate the night sky. time ceases to exist, this privilege of time that is mine for moments longer. my mind is filled with thoughts as I recollect the grand adventure that has been my life for so many days and nights. this is the perfect place in which to find respite as one chapter closes and another begins...

playa del carmen

2007-12-14T19:58:00.000-08:00

I stopped for the weekend in Playa del Carmen, a touristy spot known for its limitless social escapades. here I met with Magda and her friends from Krakow who were enjoying the life of hedonism under the Mexican sun. Evelyn too was here and along with her cohorts from NYC we hit the town for a night of innocent debauchery.

isla mujeres

2007-12-11T08:57:00.000-08:00

the island of women. this is where Sooji and I indulged in a last reunion after many months of solo travel, to recount our moments created together and apart. upon these blissful shores I said goodbye to my dearest travel companion as she returned to NYC, to another life and time. I bask in the sun for my final 2 weeks...

museo nacional de antropología

2007-12-09T09:30:00.000-08:00

behold the wonders of the Aztecs and the Mayans...

san angel

2007-12-08T09:29:00.000-08:00

Saturday was spent in San Ángel, my favorite suburb, once a village that the viceroys and elite favoured for their country houses.

frida and diego

2007-12-08T09:17:00.000-08:00

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, two famous Mexican painters united by passion and Communist views, leading to a shared life of even greater passion and pain resulting in great masterpieces. Evelyn and I spent the day at Diego´s studio, where his most entertaining neighbor Angie gave us a personal account of the lives of these capricious artists. afterwards we headed to Frida´s ¨Blue¨house in Coyoacán which is now a much visited museum. I could feel her presence.

teotihuacán

2007-12-07T17:53:00.000-08:00

the city of Teotihuacán was built two thousand years ago by an unknown race, and had been in ruins for over 600 years when the Aztecs rediscovered it and called it ´the place where gods were born´. this was in fact the first great city of the western hemisphere. it was truly an incredible sight to behold, such man-made massivity! I managed to climb the pyramid of the sun, all 247 steps, for a proper sun salutation. I did not stay long enough to climb the pyramid of the moon however, which stands at the end of the ceremonial avenue.

mexico city!

2007-12-06T06:47:00.000-08:00

12 hours, 4 films and many thoughts later, I have landed in Mexico City, the beginning of the end of mygrand adventure. I am living in the most charming home in Condesa, an artists refuge which was recently opened to soulful travelers by a most hospitable Mexican named Jorge. I immediately felt at home and upon my arrival I met Evelyn who too was traveling solo from NYC. a serendipitous meeting resulting in instant friendship. together we caroused this vibrant city that spoke of a colorful history, and became enamored with the art, culture and indeed the food! huevos rancheros has become a staple in my diet, at least for the moment.

the courtyard of the Palacio Nacional in the Zocalo, the heart of old Mexico City. within it´s walls Diego Rivera´s murals reveal the history of Mexico.

a modern and majestic sculpture along Paseo de la Reforma.

london part three

2007-11-30T22:05:00.000-08:00

with each visit to London my love affair with this enchanting city continues. I am now staying on the Thames with my dear friend Brandy and her boyfriend Keith. I was fortuitously treated by Brandy to a decadent dinner at Ubon, one of Nobu's several eateries. this evening I took a walk along the river...Tower Bridge is a grand sight, majestically illuminated against a deep blue sky. my night was spent at the Tate Modern, viewing work by artists from around the globe, a brilliant collection! it feels good to be back on English soil.

Bartosz' new flat in East London, designed and decorated by this talented young lad, well done!!

a cheeky night of revelry with Aga and Ian.

brussels

2007-11-28T17:04:00.000-08:00

from Luxembourg I took the train to Brussels, headquarters of most of the European Union's institutions. both culinarily and culturally speaking, it was really the chocolate that I was eager to ingest, as well as the traditional fare of waffles, mussels and beer. Belgians possess quite a savory palate! Tomek who lives in this frenetic city, joined me in a feast of delectable moules. I think I have had my fix!

luxembourg

2007-11-27T17:03:00.000-08:00

Luxembourg was voted the City of Culture in 2007, a title designated by the European Union in order for a city to exhibit its cultural life on an international level. needless to say I sought to find a bit of this culture. what I found was an elegant little city which felt very manageable and lively without an air of pretension, though it happens to be one of the wealthiest in the world. Luxembourg is a country of under half a million people, many of whom come from neighboring Belgium, France and Germany, creating a large ex-pat community. ruled by a Grand Duke, it is the world's only remaining sovereign Grand Duchy. I was well charmed by this intimate city.

swiss fix

2007-11-25T17:01:00.000-08:00

sometimes there is simply nothing to be said, and everything to be seen and felt. such was my experience as we drove along the lake from Lausanne to Vevey, home to Mathias and one of the most beautiful scenes I have laid my eyes upon. on the right, the savoy alps diving into the lake. on the left, the steep stairs of the vineyards (this human accomplishment has been awarded the Unesco world heritage).

lausanne

2007-11-24T17:00:00.000-08:00

Lausanne lies at the edge of Lake Geneva. complete peace exists amidst this dramatic panorama upon the lakeshore of Ouchy.

gruyères

2007-11-23T16:59:00.000-08:00

sometimes it is simply the feeling in the air and the resonating mood that a time and place create. such was Gruyères, where we stopped for the night. I was immediately taken with this medieval town, shrouded by mist and inhabited by vagrant cats. for dinner we dined on a grand feast of fondue (we were in Gruyères after all) and fell asleep to the trickling of the fountain outside the window.

in the morning a blanket of fog covered the landscape as we toured the Château, a walk into eight centuries of architecture and history. in complete contrast to the grandeur of the castle, we delved into the fascinatingly twisted mind of HR Giger, the Swiss artist famous for creating the effects for the film Alien. he bought one of the old houses in which he showcases his unique style of sexualixed surrealist visions, extending this imagined world into his Alien-style bar next door. I did not want to part with this mystical town but it was time to return to the lake.

on the road...

2007-11-23T16:58:00.000-08:00

following a walk in the green rain of Bern, Mathias and I set out for Interaken, located between Lake Brienz to the east and Lake Thun to the west. the destination of many adventure-seekers.

as the rain continued to fall and evening drew near we drove to Gstaad, renowned as a ski resort for the wealthy elite. indeed a charming winter paradise. a perfect stop for hot chocolate.

the green city

2007-11-22T16:57:00.000-08:00

In the early afternoon I arrived in Bern, the capital of Switzerland, in time for lunch with Florian, a Zurich local who I had met in Hanoi many months ago. Bern is a tiny city of 130,000, considered one of the most charming in Switzerland. unmistakably the sandstone buildings create a uniformity of green. the perfectly preserved medieval street plan, with its arcades, street fountains and clock towers persuaded UNESCO to deem Bern a World Heritage Site. what I found most appealing was the Paul Klee Museum, a grand edifice constructed by architect Renzo Piano. Klee is my most revered artist and reason enough to come to this city where he spent much of his life. after many hours lost in the fascinating mind of Klee, I was met by Mathias, a friend from long ago with whom I had shared many travel adventures. and now our Swiss chapter was about to begin...

zermatt

2007-11-21T16:56:00.000-08:00

the rain was falling in Geneva and I decided it was time to head to the mountains. four hours aboard a train winding deep into the snow-peaked mountains, destination Zermatt, one of the great ski and climbing centres of the world. stepping into this mountain village, nestled in a deep valley surrouned by Swiss peaks, dominated by the gracefully curved point of the Matterhorn, I felt a replete calm. in this place so far removed from the world there exist no cars or congestion, merely a tranquil scene of ski-bound pedestrians amidst the barns and chalets leading into hidden cobbled streets.

geneva

2007-11-19T05:30:00.000-08:00

I had heard much about Geneva from Swiss friends and all those who had traveled to this city of prosperity and elegance. I was most impressed with the old part of the city, where time (as precise as it was) seemed to stand still. amidst the cobbled streets only the placid sounds of water flowing from a fountain could be heard, mixing with the occasional ring of a church bell. the air was crisp as I spent many hours walking around the lake, gazing at the mountains beyond the grand industrialization looming in all directions. one afternoon I took the street car to Carouge, the Mediterranean style village in the middle of Geneva.

snow storm!?

2007-11-15T09:55:00.000-08:00

due to the train strike (who would have guessed the strikes go on for weeks!?) Bartosz and I rented a car to drive North, I was headed to Lyon and he to London via Paris. the adventure continued as we drove straight into what felt like the twilight zone, from a blue sky into a snow storm!! perhaps it was one of those moments shared between friends that will never be understood by another.

In very little time and much amusement, I arrived safely to Lyon and after a speeding ticket, hours of circling the city of Paris and a missed train to London, Bartosz too arrived home.

sainte-victoire

2007-11-13T04:22:00.000-08:00

I have long desired to drive along the path to Sainte-Victoire, the mountain apparent in much of Cezanne's work, 444 oil paintings and 43 watercolors to be exact. it was my persistence and slight pleading that led us to the mountain as we exited Aix-en-Provence which in the matter of less than 24 hours I introduced to Bartosz who I know would find it as warm and inviting as I had. as the mountain loomed in our presence I experienced one of those rare moments in life when all rational thought dissipates and you can only feel with your heightened senses...

saint tropez

2007-11-12T15:41:00.000-08:00

I have always been curious about this modern version of a medieval town, filled with yachts and terraced cafes, appealing to those desiring to enter a scene of wealth and glamour. when we arrived the town was sleeping. but undeniably charming with its pastel colored facades and cobbled streets leading to a night of over-priced cocktails with the locals who keep asking where have all the jet-setters gone, and a morning of fresh pastries and fruit markets. my regard for Saint Tropez is quite high in the low season. perhaps one day I shall experience the other side.

driving along the coast...

2007-11-12T14:36:00.000-08:00

the French Riviera was enticing us with its blue calm, and in our slow cruising rental car we set out for a drive along the coast, enroute to Saint Tropez!

cannes

2007-11-11T03:29:00.000-08:00

Bartosz and I decided to head south, as it was one of my most loved scenes in all of France and there was more to discover. and Paris was getting cold! in merely 5 hours we found ourselves in Cannes via the most efficient TGV train. (now is not the time I will mention the endless train strikes I encountered in my brief time in France !!) needless to say we did not meet any movie stars or attend any film premieres. there is something to be said about experiencing a city that has resigned for the season. there we found the little bit of sun that we were in search of. and from there the adventure began!

encore!

2007-11-09T03:28:00.000-08:00

upon returning to Paris I met Bartosz who had come from London for a brief encounter with this city and the places that had become so familiar to me in this, the French chapter of my journey. we spent the weekend walking from the Louvre and it's collections to Montmartre with it's views...

a Sunday stroll in the Marais, a last glass of wine with friends and it was time to part with Paris.

art affair

2007-11-07T10:50:00.000-08:00

on my last night in Amsterdam I had the privilege of attending the preview of the Affordable Art Fair (if you can consider art under 5,000 euro affordable), the first year of this exhibition which I attend annually in NYC. Mirre and Marieke joined me for a wonderful night of art and play, running into our mutual friend Gijs, a small world indeed. our night concluded in a local pizzeria before a long bike ride back to Mirre's...and a return via train to Paris...

a day on the canals...

2007-11-04T04:07:00.000-08:00

sunday was a perfect day. after a proper dutch breakfast of pancakes and sprinkles, Bram took us on his boat all along the canals for a grand tour of the city, in the crisp fall air. for dinner we met Mirre and friends before heading home through the red lights and calm waters. the following morning Bram took me on another tour, this one via bike. we spent the morning at the flea market searching for treasures, lunch in Chinatown and a visit to the Stedelijk Museum where Warhol entertained us for hours.

amsterdam

2007-11-02T02:22:00.000-07:00

I had last been to Amsterdam for the Millenium nearly 8 years ago. what fond memories I still had of this adventure with Karen, Brandy and Anna. how young we were! it was that long ago that I had seen Bram. it felt like no time had gone by as I was most warmly greeted by my favorite dutch boy and his darling girlfriend Marieke. we were soon joined for the weekend by Tomek, a friend from Krakow who I had not seen in many years, who arrived from Brussels, and Mirre who I know and adore from the time of Buenos Aires, a local who recently returned home. at Mirre's recommendation we dined at Eleven, a very cool dining venue and equally hot spot for after dinner drinks and dancing. somehow I ended the night carousing the red light district with Bram and Tomek...quite a varying set of lights than what I had been so accustomed to in Paris.

city of lights

2007-11-01T02:21:00.000-07:00

a vision of Paris during one of my many nocturnal wanderings...

rue saint sauveur

2007-10-23T02:39:00.000-07:00

I am living on Rue Saint Saveur, near to Rue Montorgueil, a lovely pedestrian street in the 2nd Arrondissement. these streets speak of a deep history, revealing an experience much like living within the walls of a museum. often I do not understand these whispers in the air as French remains a language I struggle to decipher, mostly with eager optimism, though there are moments when I feel a bit lost amidst the many French peculiarities, both cultural and verbal. I have indeed found a beautiful life here, having met many people such as Alexandre and Stephanie, friends of Delphine's with whom I spend many moments wrapped in conversation (somewhere in the middle of Engligh and French), Beatriz who lives next door, Gaia and Caroline with whom I am sharing a flat, two artists filled with a unique passion for life. and I cannot forget to mention Minka the cat, a most pleasant companion. Paris has become my school, as I spend many hours bicycling along the Seine, willingly lost in the streets of the Marais and St-Germain, studying French, speaking with anyone who will have the patience to listen...most of all this experience has become a lesson in life, as I continue to discover the inner workings of my mind and heart.

paris!

2007-10-17T03:04:00.000-07:00

I arrived to Paris into a world of art! my Parisien life began with a grand tour of the heart of Paris, through the cobblestones of the Marais, into the natural tranquility of the Luxembourg gardens and the grand presence of the Louvre, my most venerated church of St Eustache...is there any place more beautiful than Paris in the Fall? for the moment there is not. my dearest Delphine was here from Jerusalem and together we admired the new collections at Christie's followed by lunch at Cafe de Flore, after which I headed to FIAC to see the contemporary work from the many places in the world I have most recently called home. at the Pompidou I spent an afternoon with Giacometti, a most comprehensive insight into his life of art. the tour continues to the Grand Palais with Beatriz, a darling girl from Brazil, where we indulged in Courbet...there remains much more to see, savour and learn as my life in Paris evolves...

luberon

2007-10-12T05:43:00.000-07:00

"slowly in the morning, not too quickly in the afternoon". such is the pace of life in the Luberon region, the true heart of Provence. my journey began in Lourmarin, one of the most charming villages in this part of the world. there I found a small Provencal market filled with local lavendar and handicrafts, a not so small castle, and winding streets in which to lose yourself, which of course I did.

from there I entered Roussillon, a landscape of ochre cliffs in brilliant hues of reds and oranges, illuminated most majestically by the late morning light.
after lunch my tour continued to the 12th-century Cistercian Abbey of Senanque, where a community of monks live in present day.the final stop in Luberon was the hilltop village of Gordes where I had a last look at this magestic landscape.

aix-en-provence

2007-10-07T04:44:00.000-07:00

I arrived to Aix-en-Provence in the midst of the rugby chaos, as France was playing against New Zealand in nearby Marseilles. I thought I would be safe in the charming little city of Aix, but it seemed to be most densely populated with fans of this sport I was mildly intrigued with. had it been tennis I would have most fervently joined in the revelry! it took a few days to settle and find a home, but soon I was living within this maze of fountains and history, walking the streets of a city where Cezanne spent so many years of his life, drinking cafe au lait in his local haunt, a place where he, Emile Zola and the many artists of their time would disect their ponderings for hours. my mornings were spent in the sunshine, walking through the fruit and vegetable market, followed by the flower market...followed by a stop at a boulangerie for a pain au chocolat...slowly my French was improving as I met locals and found most creative ways to express my thoughts in a language that I am determined to master.

Cezanne's atelier where he would sit for long hours and paint his most revered still life compositions...Sainte-Victoire mountain in the distance...a place Cezanne would often seek refuge and inspiration.

an afternoon in nice

2007-10-05T12:40:00.000-07:00

I was eager to reach Aix-en-Provence, a place I would call home, at least for a week. this is where my french lessons would commence. on the way I stopped in Nice, on the Cote d'Azur, for a visit to the museum of a most revered artist of the South of France, Marc Chagall. a lunch of fine art and french wine, two things I value dearly in life.

monaco

2007-10-04T12:30:00.000-07:00

I once met the Prince of Monaco (true). He invited me to tea at his palace (not true), but why not stop off in this royal city-state enroute from Italy to France. in all honesty, I was eager to gamble and where better than in Monte Carlo? that is also not entirely true, though I did find my way to the Paris Casino where I made a little money....which soon afterwards I lost (those damn machines!). I must admit it was a night well spent!

cinque terre

2007-10-03T12:15:00.000-07:00

as Lisa returned to the normalcy of life in NYC and Sooji ventured to Barcelona, time was now my own and I decided to remain on the Italian Riviera. a short stop away from Santa Margherita I embarked on the village of Monterosso, one of the five villages of Cinque Terre. hidden in the mountains overlooking the Mediterranean, I had discovered paradise. a day on the beach with my thoughts and a myriad of fond recollections...followed by a day of hiking through the most breathtaking vistas my eyes have seen (at least in this part of the world), followed by another day of the beach. a sunset upon the calm of a turquoise sea in a land far removed from anything that resembles reality is not easy to part with.

camogli

2007-09-29T16:04:00.000-07:00

my newly adopted Italian family, (aka Lele's family), with whom Lisa and I became a natural extension, took us to the nearby town of Camogli for a day trip, and a grand feast. another dream lived upon the Italian Riviera.

portofino

2007-09-28T12:02:00.000-07:00

our room with a view of the Santa Margherita panorama...

in Portofino we were joined by Lisa's boyfriend Lele and his business school colleagues for a weekend sailing regatta. Italy is no doubt best experienced with the Italians, and we were fortunate to share this time with Lele and his family from Rome. the 4-course meals coupled with wine continued with this most gracious family, in a setting of warmth and royal splendor. perhaps I was Italian once...or hope to be in the next life.

venice

2007-09-25T12:01:00.000-07:00

As this was Lisa's most awaited holiday and Sooji and I had at this point become professional travelers, we planned a few days in Venice, one of the most unique, romantic (and touristy) cities in the world. we also ventured via Ferry to Murano, the island of glass, where we learned the fascinating process of glass blowing, a whole new admiration for the art of glass! there is no better place than Venice to become tangled in the cobblestones and canals with two of my favorite girls in all the world...

milan!

2007-09-23T11:36:00.000-07:00

It is time now to write the chapter of Italy, where Sooji and I reunited with Fabio and my dearest Lisa joined from NYC. the privileged life continues! upon arrival to Milan, Fabio was the warmest host and we immediately felt at home in his grand apartment that was evidently well suited for three female visitors. I dare say he did not want us to leave! aside from my cold caught between the air of Krakow and Hamburg, and Lisa's undeniable jet-lag, we had a fabulous time indulging in long evenings of pasta and wine, and afternoons of Gelato and more wine...the first of many meals shared in Italy...with wine in hand!
on Sunday we joined Fabio for an afternoon drive to Lake Como where we were invited to a picnic. after Fabio demonstrated his skill at water-skiing, we sat in the sun and basked in the 'art of doing nothing', something that has clearly originated in Italy.

hamburg in a day

2007-09-19T08:08:00.000-07:00

there was much more of Berlin to experience but I decided to venture north to Hamburg. this being Manuel`s home, I was given a proper tour in the space of a day. what a city of wealth and elegance! Hamburg boasts a beautiful harbor and is filled with canals and a mix of architecture revealing grand history in the form of large brick facades, and modernity portrayed in vast colors and shapes created by the most innovative minds. all of this viewed by my most eager and pleased eyes.

east and west

2007-09-17T07:43:00.000-07:00

The Berlin wall divided the East and West for 28 years, from the day construction began on August 13, 1961 until it was dismantled in 1989, following several weeks of civil unrest. The fall of the Berlin wall formally concluded on October 3, 1990, paving the way for German reunification. in the years of Germany's separation, up to 1,245 people had been killed trying to flee East Germany, which in recent years has become a place of opportunity for people from the whole of Germany. it was fascinating to walk along this historic division of freedom which forever stands to tell the story between East and West. Thomas, a talented photographer adding to the creative energy of a new Berlin (www.purephotography.de) joined us on this reunification tour of the city.

berlin

2007-09-16T07:33:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Berlin mildly rested after an all night train ride from Krakow. this inbetween time of reflection is indeed sacred. upon arrival I met with Manuel, a dear friend who most graciously took on the role of tour guide. I was so pleased to learn that Marc, one of my oldest friends from the teenage years of doc martens and indie rock, was in town for several weeks. I had heard so much about the energy and movement that was filling the streets of Berlin, what an incredible art scene was thriving, how much spirit filled the newly liberated East...and in fact I was well impressed with this 'work in progress' that was Berlin. much of my time was spent in Mitte, the rather chic part of East Berlin, home to many of the galleries. my days in Berlin were spent biking with Manuel from east to west and back again, often meeting with Marc for a pint in the evening, after a hearty meal of shnitzel.
the Holocaust Monument, one of the most impressive sites in Berlin

the architecture is truly incredible!! the structure of the Philharmonic
Manuel, Marc and I sharing one of our many moments....

the journey continues...

2007-09-14T00:39:00.001-07:00

I shall soon leave this landscape behind and enter another. this time has been some of the happiest during these travels, as it was spent with family. I look forward to the chapter of friends which shall continue in the months ahead. tonight I board a train enroute to Berlin...

home sweet home

2007-09-12T18:05:00.000-07:00

one of the many delicious meals cooked by my aunt Gosia. the Polish kitchen is one of my favorites!
my mom creating a masterpiece...
Sooji and I spend an evening with Tomek, Aga and her boyfriend Peter.
Piotrek and his wife Kasia stop by with little Zosia.

tomek & ania's wedding

2007-09-09T14:58:00.000-07:00

Tomek and Ania walking down the aisle on September 8th, a grand wedding and most extravagant family affair!

Tomek, Aga, Michał, Ewa and Julia (Magda was dearly missed!)
Aunt Zosia and Uncle Marek, mother and father of the groom

Uncle Eligiusz, Aunt Marysia, Aunt Aleksandra, my mom, Aunt Gosia and Uncle Grzesio
the Michniowski cousin clan (missing are Magda, Basia, Kordian, Stefan and Bogdan)a happy family: Basia, Maciek, Bernard, Julia and baby Alicja

last tango in krakow

2007-09-04T00:35:00.001-07:00

back to my beloved Krakow where I met with Jimena from Buenos Aires. naturally, a tango was in order! Jimena is on a journey of her own, and most serendipitously our paths crossed. together with Ola we shared many memorable moments, soon joined by Sooji...
my mom joined us in this city where she spent her university years.

a party with Malgosia and Matylda, friends of mine and my mom's for many years.
drinks with Marta and Piotrek as Jimena bids us farewell...
a final night of cocktails with Magda, a dear friend of Ola's.

a day in bykowce

2007-08-30T11:25:00.000-07:00

the day began in the manner that all days should begin, with a massage. (dream or reality?) my body was then ready for a little yoga on the terrace, as the sun welcomed me with it's late summer glow. for breakfast my mom and I filled our palates with raspberries in the garden. yes, life is good! nature was beckoning and along with Dagmara we took a long walk into the woods. we reached a grand rock upon which my grandparents inscribed their initials so many years ago. the peace in the woods is truly immeasurable. for lunch we had a date with my eldest aunt Aleksandra who prepared quite a feast.
after lunch we headed to Sanok for a little shopping and preparation for a visit from my mom's friend of long ago Elizabeth and her brother, a respected and accomplished composer and poet, Wojchiech Rybicki. it was a full and rousing day. and now for a moment I shall sit beneath a sky illuminated by stars, in gratitude of the wonder and warmth surrounding me. as tomorrow I temporarily part with these woody paths for the cobblestones of Krakow...

family affairs

2007-08-29T11:21:00.000-07:00

my dear cousin Tomek and his fiance Ania whom I adore! they are to be married on September 8th, a grand family event!
my cousin Basia just gave birth to her second daughter Alicja a week ago...I am already in love with her as with little Julia.
my aunt Aleksandra recently turned 70 and looks as glamourous as ever!

children of the wild

2007-08-27T12:04:00.000-07:00

as I so fondly recall my childhood in Poland, so many endless summers spent outdoors, playing in the haystacks, finding refuge in the depths of the woods, creating worlds that only a young and curious mind could understand. at one with nature. so too have my cousins Dagmara, Michał, Ewa and Julia found a home in the wilderness, creating a world very much their own, composed of branches, twigs and rocks and great imagination. the line between fantasy and reality exists outside my doorstep.

at home in the woods

2007-08-24T14:16:00.002-07:00

I arrived to Sanok to the warm embrace of my dear mother who I have not seen since my departure so many months ago. there is nothing like the feeling of home. Bykowce lies in southern Poland, not far from the town Sanok where my mom was raised with her 6 siblings and where I spent much of my childhood. my aunts, uncles and several of my many cousins remain in close proximity, and there is much activity and laughter filling this ancestral air. our villa is tucked away beneath the woods, designed and built 13 years ago by my mom and her brother Grzesio who lives here with my aunt Gosia and their daughter Dagmara. it is a beautiful life filled with simple pleasures. when my uncle is not healing the sick at the hospital or at home, he escapes to the woods to hunt, sometimes joined by another uncle Eligiusz, a forester. my hunting consists of picking berries in the garden while the rooster crows...I find refuge in the solemnity of the woods, the same woods where the Jews were saved by the local peasants during times of war, so many stories lay upon these lands...in this time which is told by the rising and falling of the sun, I have found quietude.

krakow

2007-08-24T14:16:00.001-07:00

Krakow is one of my most beloved cities. the main square is perhaps the most charming in all of Europe, lined with cafes and eateries, the sounds of a street musician in the distance mingling with the clanking of a horse and carriage upon the cobblestones... time seems to flow at a slower pace in this old capital of Poland, once the home of kings and queens, drawing great scholars and artists from the entire world. it is fascinating to experience this city which so eloquently connects tradition with modernity....my dear friend Ola lives in this cultural mecca and we had a wonderful time catching up on all the beautiful stories of our lives...wandering the mysterious streets of the Old Town and Kazimierz...breathing in the life that is uniquely Polish.

return to london

2007-08-20T03:28:00.001-07:00

my return to London was eagerly spent in one of my most loved vicinities near Bond Street. it was there that Sarah welcomed me to her mews on Wigmore Place, perhaps one of the quaintest of streets in all of London, or so it became for me. several days wrapped warmly against the chill in the air, Saturday spent at Portobello Market (more vintage shopping!) followed by an afternoon of pints with Bartosz, Sooji, Azfar and Sarah...lunch with Aga and Peter in their lovely flat in North Acton..and several afternoon teas on Marylebone Lane.

istanbul

2007-08-13T21:48:00.001-07:00

every morning I wake up in Asia and take the ferry across the Bosphorus strait to Europe. Istanbul is the only metropolis in the world which is situated on two continents. once called Constantinople, this city is deeply steeped in history, having served as the capital city of the Roman Empire (330-395), the Byzantine Empire (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin Empire (1204-1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922). this city is filled with colors, cats and sights that are simply breath-taking.a mosque in the lovely neighborhood of Ortakoy.
The Topkapi Palace, home to the Ottoman sultans for nearly four centuries.The Underground Cistern was known as the Basilica Cistern during the Roman period. after the conquest of the city by the Ottoman Turks, it was forgotten of and nobody knew that it existed. re-discovered in 1545, it was used to water the gardens of Topkapi Palace. today it has an eery and mystical ambiance with fish dancing in its waters.
the grandest of Grand Bazaars, where many a treasure can be found...
The Hagia Sophia, built by Justinian between 532 and 537, is widely regarded as the masterpiece of Byzantine architecture. it was the largest cathedral ever built for more than a thousand years, until the completion of the Seville Cathedral in 1575, during the Renaissance.

The Blue Mosque, one of the most impressive structures in the world! according to legend, Sultan Ahmet I wanted to have a minaret made of gold which is "altin" in Turkish. the architect misunderstood him as having said "alti" which means "six" in English. however, when the architect fearfully asked "am I going to be beheaded?". luckily, the Sultan Ahmed I loved the minarets. prior to that time, no sultan had a mosque with 6 minarets.

hot air!

2007-08-11T05:18:00.000-07:00

this morning I greeted the dawn, high above the volcanic peaks of Cappadocia in a hot air balloon. what a sensation to float amidst these rocky pinnacles lit in golden hues by the rising sun...

cappadocia

2007-08-09T21:36:00.000-07:00

Cappadocia is unlike any other place in the world, and I have seen many! it all began with the eruption of several volcanoes whose residues became prone to successive erosions through wind, rain and variations in temperature and began to take myriad forms. in time a series of earthquakes in the Goreme region increased the impact of erosion. as a result this magical land was formed, consisting of a vast array of 'fairy chimneys' resembling mushroom caps. Ihlara valley reveals many shelters, churches and monestaries built into these rock formations, home to a dozen civilizations beginning with the arrival of the Christians in the 4th century. a world that is beyond the realm of my imagination. walking amidst this volcanic terrain of minarets, cones and spires I had the sensation of living within a dream. the dream continued when I awoke in a cave dwelling with sweeping views to this mystical rock landscape.

ephesus

2007-08-08T23:00:00.001-07:00

the history of Ephesus dates back to 2000 B.C., a famous city of 250,000 inhabitants, a place of festivity and celebration for the many skillful artisans and wealthy merchants. Ephesus was founded by the Amazons and later conquered by the Ionians in the 11th century B.C. Artemis, the goddess of abundance, was believed to have ruled over this land that is now considered one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world. it was incredible to experience this rich history, walking amidst fragments of this venerable civilization.
The Library of Celsus built by C. Julius in honour of his father C. Celsus, the General Governor of the Province of Asia in the year 135 A.D.
The Great Theatre with a capacity of 25,000 spectators, with 22 flights of stairs, a monumental masterpiece in terms of art as well as Christianity.

tea with moses

2007-08-08T22:59:00.000-07:00

in the land of Karakaya, an 800 year old village named for its dark rocks, shining silver in the moonlight, lives a man named Musa. as we ventured to this land, we were invited to share its secrets upon our chance encounter with Musa who became known to us as Moses. captivated by tales of his life as an archaeologist and prophet, a conversation in Turkish translated by Emre, mingled with phrases of French to my delight, his world became ours for a timeless moment. Ela too became enchanted with this wiseman. with his eyes and his heart he spoke, 'love and friendship will make the world go on.'

aegean dream

2007-08-03T03:37:00.000-07:00

every morning I wake up to the turquoise calm of the Aegean Sea, in the village of Turgutreis on the Bodrum peninsula. this is the summer home of my dear friends Karen and Emre and little Elanur, the most adorable Turkish American baby I have so quickly grown to love! the first 3 months of her life she is spending summering in the Hamptons and Bodrum, quite a privileged life! needless to say Ela and I have bonded in the last few days as I learn the many lessons of motherhood. yesterday Karen, Ela and I ventured to the Greek island of Kos for a little tsatziki. these paradisic days are spent on the beach, swimming, boating in these tranquil waters, dining on grand turkish feasts of meze...in warm reminiscences of many years of friendship in a life that continues to unravel much like a dream..

a celebration of life

2007-07-29T02:19:00.001-07:00

on July 29th the London skies shone bright and blue, providing the setting for a most happily spent birthday. in the morning Bartosz and I feasted on a gluttunous breakfast at a cozy farmhouse followed by a stroll through the Columbia Street flower market, many quaint antique shops and cafes and a bit of vintage shopping on Brick Lane. I have discovered the countryside in East London! as evening drew near, I caroused the Bond Street vicinity, shared a tea at a lovely Morrocan cafe with my darling cousin Aga and met with friends for a grand dinner at 'The Garrison House', a charming pub near London Bridge. to share in this celebration of a life I value deeply, were Bartosz, his brother Rafal and girlfriend Joanna, Micheal, Aga and Peter, Ben who I befriended during the Bali chapter, Brandy and Sarah my dear friends of many years...on all accounts it was a beautiful day!

london calling!

2007-07-26T16:36:00.001-07:00

London feels like home, ever since it first entered my heart many years ago. my reunion with this charming city began in East London, the home of one of my dearest friends Bartosz, and continued on Bond Street with a private tour by an Aussie Londoner, Ian. these London days were illuminated by the elusive sun, many hours spent wandering these once familiar streets...my nights were quite short due to weary jet-lag. thankfully the pub culture begins at an early hour!

tokyo nights: part 2

2007-07-24T01:14:00.000-07:00

my return to Tokyo proved to be another 2 days and nights of carousing, this time with John who I had last seen as we raised a glass in Rio. his journey was to begin as mine continued. our night began in Roppongi, where the heartbeat of Tokyo is felt on every corner. following a sushi feast we found a suitably tacky karaoke bar, and there began my attempt at singing the classics. another whisky please!! John was a natural! upon a restful slumber in my Ryokan I spent the day shopping in the Shinjuku district where John and I met once again after viewing this magestic city of lights from the 59th floor of the Park Hyatt. after many failed attempts to enter one of the dozens of private clubs which seemed all too enticing, we made friends with the locals over several games of darts. the morning sun beckoned us to inspect the catch of the morning at the Tsukiji fish market. in the manner that my first night in Tokyo had begun several weeks ago, so it was to end. over a 6am plate of the most incredible fish I will ever have the pleasure to savour!

I was sad to leave this city and it's people but it was time to fly away once again...

hiroshima-himeji-shuzenji

2007-07-22T07:20:00.000-07:00

'When an atomic bomb falls, day becomes night. And the people become ghosts,' profound words of 10 year old Hatsumi Sakamoto.thoughtful refuge found on the island of Miyajima.the following day I encountered the majestic Himeji Castle, nicknamed "White Heron" due to its white walls covered with white fireproof plaster. The castle took 8 years to build beginning in 1601, rising atop a hill called Himeyama, 45.6 meters above sea level. Himeji Castle is famous for it's huge main tower as well as the highly effective and complicated defensive maze-like design. It stands fully intact and preserved, as it is one of the few castles in Japan never to have been attacked by warfare.it was time for a spa adventure as I jumped aboard a highly esteemed shinkansen and found my way to the hot spring resort of Shuzenji on the Izu Peninsula. named after the local temple, Shuzenji was founded 1200 years ago by Kobo Daishi (Kukai), one of Japan's most important religious personalities. after being filled with such intense sights and sensations, the steamy waters of my onsen felt like heaven!

meditation with the monks

2007-07-20T05:09:00.001-07:00

my life has taken a rather spiritual turn, as I find inner sanctity surrounded by monks in a temple in Koya-San. upon arrival Sooji and I feasted on an elaborate composition of vegetarian delicacies in all shapes and sizes followed by a deep meditation led by one of the many resident monks. the rain was falling, creating a mood of tranquility and peace, as we lay our minds and bodies to rest upon the tatami mats. we were awoken at 5am and led into a world of captivating chanting followed by a fire ceremony. as the rain continued I found myself deep in thought amidst the sacred souls in the cemetery...

my life as a geisha

2007-07-19T04:47:00.001-07:00

the last few days have been spent bicycling around this engaging city, seeking out hidden treasures in the form of temples. I have seen many and more to come in the days ahead as tomorrow we venture to Naga followed by Koya-San...I am still in surreptitious pursuit of a Geisha as these women strangely intrigue me. ah, and I cannot forget to mention all the sushi feasts accompanied by bottles of sake...this evening I took a bath. the Funaoka Onsen is a traditional Japanese bath house with an outdoor bath, sauna, cypress-wood tub, herbal bath...I have never felt so clean! this was indeed an experience.The Golden Pavilion of the Rokuon-Ji Temple
the rock garden at the Ryoanji Temple

kyoto

2007-07-18T09:52:00.000-07:00

we arrived in Kyoto to streets filled with kimono clad women and men in robes, strolling the downtown streets with a casual grace, the clunking of wooden shoes heard in every direction. it was a holiday and celebrations were under way! though I have yet to see one of the 100 Geishas who inhabit the city. I thought I may have spotted one sitting on the banks of the Kamo-Gawa river contemplating her fate...Kyoto is a vibrant historic city, home to nearly 2,000 temples and shrines and an intimacy that does not exist in Tokyo. it is a charming city with much to discover...

tokyo nights: part 1

2007-07-15T04:51:00.000-07:00

a brief stop in Hong Kong where Sooji and I met once again to continue our journey to Tokyo where our final chapter in Asia was to commence. here we were joined by our dear friends Maria and Blair with whom we shared several memorable days on the island of Gili Trawangan back in the time of Bali. weary from a long day of flights yet fully awake to the energy of Tokyo, they whisked us away to a trendy hotspot called Yellow, where dj Mark Farina set the mood for a long night of dancing and revelry followed by an early morning at the fish market. sushi for breakfast? this was of course followed by a clandestine piano performance by the very musically inclined Blair, on a baby grand at the Conrad...we saved the sushi feast for a grand dinner, this delectable fish of which I can`t seem to eat enough of. it is such moments that I so often smile upon...

the great wall

2007-07-12T09:42:00.001-07:00

the morning was misty. the arduous climb felt like the combination of a dream and trial of strength, hiking up to the Great Wall, the longest and most time-consuming ancient defense system, taking over 2,000 years to construct, a length of 6,300 kilometers. this piece of the wall was not restored and not easily found, and I was undeniably exultant to have reached this path that felt so close to heaven. to end my final day in Beijing, I feasted my eyes on a traditional Chinese Opera and my palate on Peking duck. both proved most appetizing.

798 art centre

2007-07-12T09:41:00.001-07:00

I agree with Duchamp`s conception of art that a person`s "life" is "art" in a way, and neither is more important than the other. 798 Art Centre is one of China`s largest art spaces, the former facility of state-run 798 electronic factories. since 2002 artists have built their studios in these old warehouses, now home to impressive artwork that is being recognized internationally. these warehouses also boast independent designer boutiques and cafes, a world of not-so-hidden treasures.

beijing

2007-07-10T20:56:00.000-07:00

I became quite the diligent tourist in Beijing with little time and very much to see in this city filled with sights. my life in Shanghai seemed to follow me as several of my friends appeared during my week of cultural jaunts. the history lesson began in Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, a huge complex of halls, towers and pavilions covered in golden tiles. here was the home of 24 emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties for nearly 500 years. I was caught in a rainstorm while carousing this Palace Museum which added to the magestic mood. as evening fell I made my way to Jingshan Park which overlooks the Forbidden City.

I was very much taken with the Summer Palace which is in fact the largest existing ancient imperial garden of China. all day can be spent walking these grounds and marveling at the detail in the construction.
an old Chinese fortune teller inscribing my fortune which reads `everything is as I wish`. clever man!

48 hours enroute

2007-07-08T19:03:00.000-07:00

two days of my life were spent aboard a train headed from Lhasa to Beijing. a journey of 4,064 kilometers to be exact. this time was filled with visions of sheep grazing in verdant pastures, and snow capped mountain peaks. these vistas became scenes of my life as I sat in deep peace upon my bunk, fully aware of the luxury of time. my cabin mates were two Tibetans and a Chinese man. I befriended the somewhat English-speaking Tibetan and as hours grew long and conversation grew short I taught him to play my beloved game of backgammon. in turn he taught me a Tibetan game. in this way, after many cups of tea and wanders into the dining car, more for the sake of observation than nourishment...much reading and writing...time passed. I was one of only 5 Westerners aboard the train. this time was my own, blissfully trapped in a moving vessel with a head filled with thoughts reflected through eyes filled with visions.

noodles and nuns

2007-07-05T08:19:00.000-07:00

today I feasted on a delicious Tibetan lunch of noodles and pork dumplings (or was it yak?), cooked by nuns. there exist 3 nunneries in Lhasa and I was privileged to visit one and observe the daily lives of the 100 residing nuns. I could spend all day surrounded by their calm. have I found my calling? I think not! during these last 5 days I have grown very fond of Tenzin (who was once a monk himself). he has most graciously introduced us into the Tibetan culture and made us feel at home. my senses are filled and I shall take these visions and inner peace with me as the train departs for Beijing in the early morning...
an afternoon of observations and meditations in Lhasa.

scenes from a dream

2007-07-03T05:57:00.000-07:00

these are the vistas that will accompany me on my 48 hour train journey to Beijing...the adventure continues!

visions of lhasa

2007-07-03T04:08:00.000-07:00

The Patala Palace, official residence of the Dalai Lamas

a sheep and I taking refuge at the Drepong Monastery

tibet

2007-07-02T04:14:00.001-07:00

I have arrived to "the Holy City" of Lhasa. It feels much like a dream, surrounded by monks and mountains, at an altitude of 12,000 feet. my head and heart feel light as I wander through this spiritual wonderland with the aid of Tenzin the tour guide. In hours which feel like days, I have seen so much and the adventure has only just begun. my first stop was at the spiritual heart of the city, the Jokhang Temple, a mix of Tibetan, Indian, Nepalese, and Chinese architecture. within Tibet's holiest shrine thousands of butter candles illuminate the most sacred Buddha statue, one of over 200 so deeply revered by its worshipers.

at the Sera Monastery, one of the 3 monasteries in Lhasa housing over 2,400 monks, I was amazed to observe a philosophical debate. such passion and energy in the words and motions of these peace abiding monks. if only I could understand their banter...
the people of Tibet are, in a word, beautiful.

a life in shanghai...

2007-06-30T07:04:00.000-07:00

the past week has been a whirlwind, feeling much more like a month with all that I have seen, eaten, experienced...and all those that I have met. I feel completely immersed in the life here and have even begun to find my way around the city, taking subways, speaking with the locals (still limited to 'hello' and 'thank you', spoken mostly with the eyes). one night I attended an art opening of international female artists at a wonderful space (www.1918artspace.com) followed by a grand 'hot pot' dinner with the artists. the Chinese dining experience is quite an event in itself! last night I met several friends at Barbarossa, a favorite moroccan lounge of mine, placed most serenely on a lake, and onwards to Bar Rouge for champagne in the rain and a dance amidst the ex-pats.

today a tasty brunch at Sasha's with Crystyl, Anthony and Blair who has flown in from Hong Kong. what dear friends I have made in this city which has most graciously drawn me in! the 'Art in America' show at the Shanghai Museum and MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) satisfied my mild cravings of the city and culture I left behind. I will miss this place and it's people and the life that I have found here. indeed parting is such sweet sorrow as I bid farewell to Shanghai and prepare to greet Tibet.

shanghai!

2007-06-22T01:33:00.000-07:00

I arrived to Shanghai not knowing a soul. on my first night I made my way to '3 on the Bund', a prime location including Jean Georges and many other fine eateries and bars. It was there that I met several strangers who soon became friends and began what feels like a very privileged life. I found a home in People Square, downtown Shanghai, at the warm hospitality of Georg, a german ex-pat, one of many in this continuously growing foreign community. days here are hot amidst the polluted air, but my curiosity provokes me to wander these seemingly unnavigatable streets where noone speaks English and I am at the mercy of a map and any written scraps of paper bearing the name of my destination in Chinese. while it is strange and uncomfortable to feel so helpless I am deeply fascinated with the life here. my eyes speak volumes while my voice cannot. surely I will not take the ease of communication for granted when I land on familiar soil.the art world of China is finding its voice in this city of fervent growth and energy. I spent an afternoon at Moganshan Road, a mass of ateliers revealing artistic provocation. much of these works are clearly politically driven.

my favorite neighborhood is the French Concession, flavoured with the charm of Paris. tree lined streets filled with boutiques as well as many trendy restaurants. Shanghai is indeed a city of eating which I am doing much of, including such delicacies as pigs knuckles and soups that I can't even begin to describe...and shopping, which I have not been doing so much of as my shoe size (39.5) is non-existant and a size 6 is translated into XL !?

hong kong

2007-06-17T04:37:00.000-07:00

From one island to another. I arrived to Hong Kong after three weeks under the Bali sun, it was not easy to leave, yet I was eager to enter a new space of culture and movement. Hong Kong is a unique city with it's Asian flair and European influences, filled with habitants from all over the world. we are staying with friends in the soho neighborhood, and feeling quite at home. a day of carousing the sloped streets, up to Victoria's Peak for a proper view and back down to join the locals and ex-pats in the revelry of dining and dancing...
the view from "Aqua" prior to the lightshow...the perfect moment of nightfall.

to live and laugh

2007-06-16T06:44:00.001-07:00

love and laughter are key ingredients towards a happy life. "I often laugh at nothing, but I always laugh" says Mudarta, who I call the laughing man. a Balinese local with a contagious smile and warm countenance, whose laughter provokes a smile in even the most dour face. Mudarta has a very wise approach to life. such wisdom is learned in the invaluable school of life and cannot be taught. I took a liking to him immediately, and in the days that followed we drove throughout Bali, to the sacred temple of Tanah Lot where I was blessed with holy water, and far away to the still active Batur volcano. time of visual stimulation and insights. it is through such interaction with others that I learn the most about life.

skillfullly crafted masks found on the roadside in Ubud.

gili trawangan

2007-06-09T06:53:00.000-07:00

after my most exhilarating diving experience to date (it was my 6th dive!!) in the waters near Padang Bai, where I spotted several sharks, a tiger ray and an assortment of fish in multifarious shapes and colors, we boarded a ferry to the island of Gili Trawangan, near Lombok. a four hour ride into a glorious sunset. the island is inhabited by warm souls, cats with uniquely short tails and donkeys which provide the transportation. sooji and I met many people from distant lands, and together we shared this lucid dream.

a day in ubud

2007-05-30T06:55:00.000-07:00

a room with a view. the rice fields outside of my homestay.
a morning at the monkey forest. yes, that is really a monkey on my back! adorable but fiesty little creatures.
an afternoon at the impressive Neka Museum which boasts the work of Arie Smit, a Dutch painter who greatly influenced the art movement in Bali.
by nightfall, following a meal at my favorite restaurant Nomad, I experienced a traditional Kecak dance in which many locals participate. the people of Bali are so filled with spirituality!

island of the gods

2007-05-26T01:02:00.001-07:00

in the belief of reincarnation, our deeds, wealth, and love determine the next life. I would like mine to be lived in Bali. this is a beautiful land where people smile often and the art of creation brings nourishment to the soul. Ubud is a haven for artists, writers and anyone seeking spiritual enlightenment. my days are spent in admiration of the great artistic expression present in the temples, paintings, dance, even the food of which each mouthful I savour. might I mention the art of massage which I experience as often as possible. at the hands of master painter Nyoman Sudadnya I am learning the techniques of Batik painting, quite a skill involving hot wax and patience. amidst the miles of rice fields this composition of my life continues...

a batik comes to life from the recesses of a vivid imagination...

kuala lumpur

2007-05-23T21:13:00.000-07:00

"Malaysia: truly Asia" seems to be the word on the streets in this modern metropolis composed of trees and skyscrapers, the twin towers being the highest in the world. 48 hours in this jungle landscape proved most stimulating, fine dining and dancing followed by bowls of noodles from the friendly man in the street cafe, do as the locals do...a short break from the quietude of the beach, until we meet again in Bali...

ko phi phi!

2007-05-17T07:39:00.000-07:00

I am now on the island of Ko Phi Phi in Thailand, attempting to overcome my fear of water by diving into the deep end, quite literally. I am taking a diving course and will soon be certified! tomorrow is my first dive after several days of an underwater education, learning skills and how not to panic. I am not afraid of much in life but I must say this has been a challenge! seems that I have found another paradise with turquoise waters, cliffs, caves...indeed I feel as though I have stepped onto the set of 'The Beach'!
it is within these waters that I became a diver with a deep regard for the underwater world, what a sensation!

luang prabang

2007-05-10T01:01:00.001-07:00

I have found the most serene, slow-paced city in Southeast Asia, and one of the most spiritual. Luang Prabang is the City of the Buddha of Peace, hidden in the mountains of Laos. the population is a mere 15,000, with over 600 saffron-clad monks who inhabit its thirty pagodas. it's incredible to walk the streets and suddenly stop to gaze at a temple in a place where time seems to stand still. my days are spent bicycling on the edge of the Mekong in exploration of a city that has become a favorite of mine, with its ideal mix of nature and sophistication. many elegant restaurants with tasty Laotian cuisine, as well as charming local cafes on the river where I can sit over a good strong coffee for hours. galleries are finding a home here as local artists are showcasing their work and the Laotians are taking more of an interest in art and literature. it is a place I would love to spend more time, ah yes time...
the Kuang Si waterfall, one of several in Laos...a great force of nature!
the morning monks taking their alms at sunrise. a most thoughtful and intimate moment.

tailor made

2007-05-04T21:03:00.001-07:00

I am trapped in a world of tailors and fittings. of the over 200 tailors in Hoi An I have been to 6, maybe 7...with approximately 4 fittings in each I now have 4 dresses, 2 jackets, 1 suit and a pair of shorts. so rewarding and exhausting to create your own wardrobe! not sure what happened to traveling lightly...

hoi an

2007-05-04T07:02:00.001-07:00

I have found a place to call home, at least for a few days. Hoi An is a charming village, filled with the finest eateries in which a 3-course meal at a 4 star restaurant costs $5. I wonder just how many spring rolls I can eat!? I can't speak much for the sights as I have taken a break from visiting temples and taken to visiting the tailor shops, perhaps more exhausting than silent prayer. the streets are filled with galleries exhibiting paintings by young local talent. these lacquer compositions reveal a sentimentality that speaks from the soul of an artist.
my latest acquisition as my art collection grows, by a young Vietnamese artist reminiscent of Paul Klee, one of my most beloved artists.

halong bay

2007-05-04T07:01:00.000-07:00

for 2 days I lived on a 'junk' boat, with 12 other equally adventurous souls. lost admidst 950 miles of mysterious limestone formations rising out of the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Bac Bo. meals of fresh caught fish, a morning of kayaking, cave exploration and beaches...some of the most wondrous natural sights I have yet seen, disconnected from all that resembles reality. A beautiful sensation of complete freedom.
sunset from the roof deck...followed by a night beneath the stars drinking Vietnamese wine (some things are better left to the French...)
the darling yet fiesty Vietnamese girl from whom I bought many an exotic fruit. I love the idea of a floating fruitstand!

hanoi

2007-04-28T12:57:00.000-07:00

I am living in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, where life spills into the streets. women sit huddled together in conversation over bowls of noodles, cooked in a pan at their side. the soft, almost melodic hum of scooters weaves through the crowds of pedestrians and bicyclists. I sit and observe over a cup of coffee, the best coffee I have tasted in months. strong and slightly bitter, mixed to perfection with sweetened milk, which I ingest by the spoonful. I digress, my mind wanders, the common trait of a pensive observer...
some sort of concoction of beans, fruit, ice and condensed milk, delicious!! such tasty street foods!

mekong delta

2007-04-26T10:13:00.001-07:00

a day was spent at the Mekong Delta, a scenic river with lush green canals, home to many local farmers. a land of nature and tranquility. from a bus to a motor boat to a rowboat to a taxi to a plane to Hanoi...

ho chi minh city (saigon)

2007-04-23T12:18:00.003-07:00

it is here in Vietnam that exhaustion has finally caught up with me. this is a rapidly moving city, everyone seems to be zipping by on a scooter, and to cross the street is quite an interactive experience. perhaps it's the intense heat or over-stimulation of the past four months, or perhaps the desire to simply call a place my home. my mind is filled with so many visions, at once they form a most elaborate composition of people and places...the world has taken residence in my head. these days in Saigon are spent indulging in bowls of Pho, those noodles which I love, and a little bit of shopping (I will save my energy for the tailors in Hanoi). and of course a great deal of culture. a heavy day of history at the War Remnants Museum. what is it that they say, be careful when discussing religion and politics? I would have to agree. tomorrow the Mekong Delta...

the killing fields

2007-04-23T12:18:00.001-07:00

the devastation that met so many Cambodians in the years of the Khmer Rouge's rule is unthinkable. a day frought with emotion and much sadness as I visited the Tuol Sleng Museum, once the Tuol Svay Prey High School, turned Security Prison 21, the largest center of detention and torture in the country. the spaces where so many innocent lives were lost, chambers with rusty beds, wooden cells in which there was room only for grief. the survivors of this prison were taken to the killing fields of Cheoung Ek, which became the memorial of these 17,000 men, women and children who were so wrongfully executed. 129 mass graves, sights of a dark and somber past that will remain with me as I journey through history.

thommanon

2007-04-21T20:47:00.004-07:00

Thommanon is an intimate temple that exhibits much detail...have I mentioned how many temples I have seen? perhaps enough for a lifetime, though I suspect more await in the days ahead...

ta prohm

2007-04-21T20:47:00.003-07:00

this is my favorite of the temples, set in a tangle of trees, creating a mood of romance. rightfully so, the King dedicated Ta Prohm to his mother. the light was perfect as it shone on this temple that was left in it's natural state of collapse, in my view quite a beautiful state. I could have easily spent another week lost amidst the temples that create this ancient Angkor Kingdom, there are so many! each one unique in it's grandeur.

the bayon

2007-04-21T20:47:00.001-07:00

at the center of Angkor Thom lies the Bayon, one of the most enigmatic and religious constructions in the world. it is composed of a mass of face-towers which form what appear to be mountain peaks. most of the 37 remaining towers are carved with 4 faces. I was immersed in a world of Angkor eyes peering at me from every angle...wonderfully eerie!

angkor wat

2007-04-18T09:43:00.001-07:00

Angkor Wat is the grandest and most sublime of all the Khmer temples. it was built in the 12th century, both as the capital and the State Temple dedicated to Vishnu. this is the first of many temples I explored in this monumental region of Angkor, many of which are composed of the two major features of Khmer architecture: a pyramid and concentric galleries. the visions of this Hindu universe are overwhelming!

siem reap

2007-04-18T09:42:00.000-07:00

I have arrived to Siem Reap, a city which feels much like a village, slowly making strides towards modernity. Cambodia is a country that is only now recovering from a devastating past due to the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge. I experienced one of the most intense days of this journey, beginning with a morning spent in a floating village in which the houses, schools and shops all float in the muddy waters of the Tonle Sap river. it was incredible to observe an entire life that is only accessible by boat. children played in buckets or lay in the hammocks, as parents busied themselves with chores. I felt slightly obtrusive looking so closely into the intimate spaces of these local people. yet it was immeasurably fascinating.
following the floating village I sought refuge from the extreme heat and entered the world of the Angkor temples...

the grand palace

2007-04-17T05:31:00.000-07:00

Bangkok is strewn with photos of the much revered king. his former residence is spectacular. the Grand Palace is enormous and greatly detailed, and filled with temples comtaining the sacred Buddha, as is the nearby Wat Pho, the largest and oldest temple in Bangkok, dating from the 16th century. there I encountered the grand reclining Buddha, measuring 46m long and 15m high, as he has passed into final nirvana.

bangkok

2007-04-17T04:33:00.000-07:00

I arrived to a wet Bangkok. it was the start of their New Year. all through the city, locals and foreigners alike were drenching one another with buckets of water, as signifies good luck. complete chaos on the streets! I managed to stay dry by seeking refuge behind the sealed windows and locked doors of taxis, until one night after many hours of carousing, fortune struck and I joined the wet festivities. my dear friends Anika and Chuck were in town and together we indulged in several nights of meals that last for hours as in Thai tradition, followed by one drink that mysteriously turns into three...
Azfar from Taiwan joined us, and from high atop the roof of the Vertigo bar we looked into the deepening hues of a setting sun above a city that was far from sleep.

goa!

2007-04-11T00:35:00.000-07:00

we are living in a treehouse on Morjim beach, in the north of Goa. I fall asleep to the sounds of a lulling sea and wake to the melodic cacophany of birds. we have found paradise, secluded from the many tourists and merchants of Calangute and Baga beaches. several days spent in serenity, where once again I recall how beautiful and simple life can be. on the 13th the journey continues to Bangkok...

shiv niwas palace

2007-04-11T00:14:00.000-07:00

I am quite certain that I was an Indian princess in a past life. when we arrived to the Shiv Niwas Palace in Udaipur, I felt at home. this was to be our residence for the next 3 days, what was once home to the royal family, and is now the guest quarters for soulful travelers seeking stately refuge. it was within these walls that I felt the side of an India that tells of its riches and history.
the Lake Palace is a spectacular sight, only reachable by boat but admirable from any distance. this tranquilty defines Udaipur.